TO GET LOST

Solo Palacio

Llanuces - Spain
Eleven wabi-sabi style apartments inside a centuries-old palace above tiny Llanuces, where the view is entirely forest, pasture and the peaks of Las Ubiñas.
Countryside

Countryside

Pet Friendly

Pet Friendly

Pool

Pool

Restaurant

Restaurant

Wellness

Wellness

Bike Rental

Bike Rental

THE SETTING

Solo Palacio is hidden high in the Quirós valley, in the mountains of central Asturias. The final road climbs through small villages and thick woodland before reaching Llanuces, a hamlet with only a handful of residents. The property is located at around 1,000 metres, within the Las Ubiñas-La Mesa Natural Park. From the garden, all you see are mountains, forest and pasture.
 
The old Palacio de Miranda-Quirós is closer to a small walled hamlet than a single grand house. The estate includes the former family residence, chapel, granary, stables and agricultural buildings, built and altered over several centuries. Only four families are said to have lived here since its earliest years.
Carlos Díaz and Sofía Tejerina found the property after it had fallen into ruin. Restoring it took several years and a team of craftspeople, archaeologists and newly trained stonemasons. Old walls were repaired by hand, existing timber was reused where possible, and modern installations were hidden inside the historic structure.
 
The hotel opened in 2023. Its architecture still carries the marks of time: worn stone, uneven walls, old ovens and timber darkened with age. You can tell the building came first, and the hotel followed.

THE ROOMS

The 11 apartments are spread across the palace, chapel and former service buildings. Choosing between them is mainly about space, position, and the room’s history. One apartment occupies the old carriage entrance, where visitors once arrived and luggage was unloaded. Another sits inside the former chapel, with unusually high ceilings. A third retains the ovens from the servants’ kitchen.
 
Every apartment has its own layout. Some are open lofts; others have separate bedrooms and living rooms. Several include a fireplace or freestanding bathtub, while the largest have enough space for a family or two couples.
 
Sofía kept the interiors deliberately spare. White lime walls, stone, cement, heavy timber and linen provide the background. Furniture comes from antique markets, previous owners and small makers, with old farming tools and woven objects used sparingly.
 
The rooms have warmth despite the minimal decoration. Sofas are deep, beds are excellent, and the lighting is particularly good after dark. Most apartments also have a small kitchen or kitchenette, useful for coffee, snacks or a quiet evening in.

THE FOOD

Solo X Monte is the hotel’s bistro, created with Xune Andrade, chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant Monte in nearby San Feliz. His cooking starts with rural Asturias: local meat, vegetables, cheese and recipes connected to the surrounding valleys. At Solo Palacio, that approach takes the form of a more relaxed dinner served only to hotel guests.
 
Having a proper restaurant on site makes a real difference here. After dark, the mountain roads feel longer, and the last thing most guests want is another drive. Dinner can be followed by a drink beside the fire and a short walk back to the room. The cocktail bar opens before dinner and serves a short list of signature drinks. Dinner is available on selected evenings and should be arranged in advance, as the opening schedule changes during the year.

THE STAY

The infinity pool sits above one of the old stone walls, facing the forests and mountains. It is unheated, so the water follows the Asturian weather. On a warm summer day, it is difficult to leave; in spring and autumn, it is better approached with conviction. The small wellness house has a Finnish sauna with a wide mountain-facing window and an outdoor jacuzzi heated above the surrounding temperature. Access is private, booked in timed sessions and charged separately. Massages, yoga and other treatments can also be arranged.
 
The hotel operates on a not-for-profit basis. After salaries, operating costs and taxes, remaining funds support environmental and community work in the surrounding area. One initiative uses grazing goats to clear dry vegetation and reduce the risk of forest fires.

AROUND SOLO PALACIO

The first days are best kept local. Las Ubiñas-La Mesa covers more than 45,000 hectares of limestone peaks, mature beech forests, pasture, and high-mountain valleys. Brown bears, wolves, deer and Cantabrian capercaillies live within the reserve, although sightings are never guaranteed.
 
The Senda del Oso is the easiest way to explore. This old mining railway has become a long greenway through tunnels, gorges and woodland. Bikes can be rented nearby, and one branch passes the Valdemurio reservoir, where kayaks and paddleboards are available in summer. For walking, the Corroriu mills are close and manageable, while the Las Xanas gorge follows a narrow path cut into the rock. Higher routes around Gamoniteiro, Peña Rueda and the Ubiña massif require more experience and careful attention to the weather.
 
Oviedo is around 40 to 45 minutes away. Its pre-Romanesque churches, cider houses and food markets make a good change after several days in the mountains. The Asturian coast can be reached in about an hour, though Solo Palacio deserves enough time before heading elsewhere.
Weather changes quickly at this altitude. Bring proper shoes and a waterproof layer, even when the forecast looks harmless.

THE OWNERS

Solo Palacio was created by Sofía Tejerina and Carlos Díaz. Carlos had worked in corporate sustainability for more than a decade and was looking for land with water, forest and some resilience to a changing climate. He found the abandoned palace almost by chance while browsing an international website for unusual historic properties.
 
Sofía led the interiors and the wider visual identity. Her work at Solo Palacio received a Laus design award in 2024. The Japanese idea of wabi-sabi gave her a useful starting point: age, wear and irregularity were allowed to remain visible rather than being corrected out of the building. The restoration required patience. Local workers learned old stone techniques, furniture was collected piece by piece, and every modern intervention had to fit around the protected structure.
 
Carlos and Sofía remain closely involved, supported by a small team that knows the valley well. The hospitality is relaxed and personal, with plenty of help available for walks, meals and activities once you arrive.

GOOD TO KNOW

Solo Palacio has 11 rural apartments across three categories, ranging from 37 to approximately 102 m². They accommodate two to four guests, and most include a living area and kitchen or kitchenette. Children under ten are not normally accepted. Small dogs up to 10 kg are allowed in selected apartments with prior approval and a €30 cleaning fee per stay.
 
The restaurant Solo X Monte serves dinner on selected evenings, and advance booking is strongly recommended. The old buildings include stairs, changes of level and uneven surfaces. There is no lift, and the property is unsuitable for many guests with reduced mobility.
 
A car is strongly recommended. Oviedo is roughly 45 minutes by car, and Asturias Airport is around 95 km away.
 
Rates usually start at €285 per night, room-only, depending on the season and apartment category.

THE ADDRESS

Solo Palacio

Llanuces 6
33117 Llanuces
Spain

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