COUNTRYSIDE

Mastropà

Massafra - Italy

Nine rooms in a restored 19th-century country house above the Gulf of Taranto, surrounded by olive trees, gardens and the ravines of Massafra.

Adults Only

Countryside

Pool

Beach 10km

Cooking Lessons

Massage

THE SETTING

Mastropà sits on a hill outside Massafra, in a quieter part of Puglia that many travellers still drive past on their way to Ostuni, Lecce or Matera. That is part of its charm. This is not the postcard version of Puglia built only around trulli and white towns. Around Massafra, the landscape is rougher and more unexpected: olive groves, wheat fields, Mediterranean scrub, tufa stone and deep ravines cut into the land.

The house was originally known as Casino Mastropaolo, an elegant country residence and hunting lodge from the early 19th century. Wealthy landowners came here in summer, when the rhythms of the estate followed oil, wheat, meals, guests and long evenings outside.

Mimmo Casulli knew the house long before he owned it. As a child, he would look at it from the window of his father’s home and imagine what it was like beyond the gate. In 2012, he and his wife, Gianna, bought the property and began a restoration that lasted around 10 years. They replanted the land, brought the old building back to life and opened it as Mastropà: a small country stay with nine rooms, a pool, gardens, local cooking and wide views towards the Gulf of Taranto.

The result feels polished, but still personal. It is not a masseria pretending to be ancient for effect. The family story is real, the restoration took time, and the hospitality still feels like people opening a house they deeply wanted to save.

THE ROOMS

The rooms are divided between two parts of the property: the old Casino Mastropaolo and the former stables. The main house carries the more historic atmosphere, with high ceilings, pale stone, arched openings and views across the countryside. The former stables feel lower, quieter and more connected to the garden.

There are nine rooms in total, including king rooms, deluxe rooms and suites. Most are spacious, with many around 35 m², while the larger suites reach around 40 to 75 m². Several open onto a balcony, patio or garden area, and some have views towards the sea or surrounding countryside. The interiors are calm and bright. Tufa stone, white walls, soft fabrics, and contemporary furniture keep the rooms fresh without losing the building’s Puglian character. The best rooms are those where the old structure still does most of the work: thick walls, vaulted ceilings, stone floors and the quiet of the countryside outside.

THE FOOD

Food at Mastropà is closely tied to the estate. Breakfast is prepared in the open kitchen, with focaccia, cakes, fruit, fresh eggs, jams and seasonal produce. Much comes from the vegetable garden, orchard, olive trees and small chicken coop.

The cooking stays close to Puglia: handmade pasta, focaccia, vegetables, local cheeses, grilled meats and simple desserts. There is no formal restaurant running every day. Instead, aperitifs, lunches, dinners and private-chef evenings can be arranged in advance for a small number of guests.

Cooking classes are also available, with guests preparing fresh pasta, panzerotti, focaccia and other local dishes before sitting down to enjoy them with a glass of wine.

THE STAY

The saltwater infinity pool sits among the gardens, with loungers, shade and views across the olive trees. It becomes the natural centre of the property in summer. The 18-hectare estate gives plenty of space to walk, read or disappear into the quieter corners of the garden. Mediterranean scrub, aromatic herbs, carob trees, olive trees and planted borders soften the old stone buildings.

There is also a sun terrace with a jacuzzi, used as part of the wellness experience. Treatments and massages can be arranged in different parts of the estate, including the garden, the panoramic terrace and a more unusual setting linked to old rock settlements and rainwater channels carved into the calcarenite stone.

The atmosphere is private without feeling empty. Couples stay for a few quiet days. Small groups can take over the whole property. Weddings and events also form part of Mastropà’s life, although ordinary stays remain intimate because of the limited number of rooms.

AROUND MASTROPÀ

Massafra is the part of the story many travellers will not expect. The town lies within the Terra delle Gravine, the largest regional natural park in Puglia, spanning around 28,000 hectares between the Taranto Murgia and the Ionian Sea. Its landscape is defined by ravines: deep cuts in the limestone, once used for cave dwellings, shelters and rock-hewn churches.

Massafra is built around the Gravina di San Marco, which separates the older and newer parts of town. Guided walks reveal frescoed cave churches, rock settlements and views into the ravine that feel far removed from the more familiar Puglia of beaches and white villages. From Mastropà, it is easy to reach Taranto, one of southern Italy’s most underrated cities. The old town sits between the Mar Piccolo and Mar Grande, while the MARTA archaeological museum houses one of the most important collections associated with Magna Graecia.

The Ionian coast is also close. Chiatona, Castellaneta Marina and Marina di Pulsano are useful for beach days, depending on the wind and the kind of sea you want. Matera is a natural day trip, close enough to visit without changing hotels. Alberobello, Martina Franca, Locorotondo and the Valle d’Itria are also within reach, although they belong to a very different Puglia.

THE OWNERS

Mastropà is run by Gianna and Mimmo Casulli, together with their sons Francesco and Marco and the wider team. Mimmo had looked at the old house since childhood, long before the restoration began. Buying it in 2012 was not simply a business decision; it was the start of bringing a personal dream into real life.

The family describes Mastropà as a home before a hotel. The house was restored slowly, the gardens were planted over years, and the team still hosts with the warmth of people who want guests to understand the land around them. Their advice is especially useful because this part of Puglia is less obvious than the usual routes.

GOOD TO KNOW

Mastropà has nine rooms and suites. Pets are generally not accepted. The property is best suited to adults and couples.

Breakfast is served daily. Lunch, dinner, private-chef experiences, aperitifs and cooking classes are available on request and should be arranged in advance. Reception is usually available from 7 am to 7 pm.

Rates start at €300 per night, depending on the room and season.