COUNTRYSIDE

Vecchia Dogana

Astano - Switzerland

A former customs house in the quiet hills of Malcantone, with five rooms, a wild garden and Astano’s little lake just a short walk away.

Countryside

Countryside

Pet Friendly

Pet Friendly

Kitchen

Kitchen

Garden

Garden

Bike Rental

e-Bikes

Starlight

Starlight

THE SETTING

Vecchia Dogana is a guesthouse in Astano, in the Malcantone region of Ticino, close to the Italian border and between Lake Lugano and Lake Maggiore. The building dates from the late 19th century and was originally built as a customs house.
 
The setting is quiet in a very Ticino way: hillside greenery, chestnut woods, stone villages, narrow roads and the small lake of Astano nearby. It is the part of the region sometimes called the “Toscana del Ticino”, not because it tries to look Italian, but because of the softer light, the hills, the villages and the slower rhythm.
 
The house has been restored with a low-impact approach. Many of the furnishings are second-hand, found and reused. There is something slightly public-building about the atmosphere — old school, old office, old border house — and instead of hiding that, Vecchia Dogana lets it become part of the charm.

THE ROOMS

Vecchia Dogana has five rooms, accommodating up to nine adults and two children. There are four double rooms and one single room, spread across the first and second floors of the house.
 
On the first floor, Rooms 1 and 2 can connect, which is useful for families or friends travelling together. Room 2 can also be reached from the balcony. On the second floor, Rooms 3, 4 and 5 offer simpler sleeping spaces, including one single room. Bathrooms are shared on each floor, with two WC/shower combinations and one separate WC. That detail is important to know before booking. For the right guest, it fits the spirit of the house: informal, sustainable, unpretentious and close to the old guesthouse feeling.

THE FOOD

Breakfast is served in the ground-floor breakfast room, a bright space with 1940s tiles, a wood table from a grotto in Capriasca and lamps that once belonged to the Hotel Milano in Faido. It opens directly onto the garden, so in good weather, the morning easily moves outside.
 
The breakfast is local and seasonal, with slow-leavened bread, homemade cakes and jams, yoghurt, cheese and eggs from nearby farms, organic honey, fresh fruit, coffee, tea and herbal infusions. Coffee, tea, herbal teas and fruit are also available during the day, which suits the atmosphere.
 
There is also a fully equipped shared kitchen on the first floor. For guests staying several nights, or for those booking the whole house, this is one of the best parts of the stay. You can keep things simple by buying local produce, preparing a light dinner, and avoiding driving back out every evening.

THE STAY

The garden is central to Vecchia Dogana. There are tables, chairs, loungers, a barbecue and an outdoor shower. The atmosphere is slow and quiet. No pool playlist, no performance, no hotel theatre. Just the house, the garden, the woods and the little lake nearby.
 
Astano’s little lake is a short walk away, and it gives the stay a very easy summer rhythm: breakfast, walk, swim, read, come back, cook something simple. The area is also good for hiking and mountain biking, with a large network of trails through the Malcantone hills and villages.
 
Two electric bikes are available to rent, which is a good way to explore without turning every outing into a drive. The house is also pet-friendly, making it a natural choice for guests travelling with a dog and looking for quiet days outside.

AROUND VECCHIA DOGANA

Astano is a small village in the Malcantone, a green, hidden corner of Ticino close to the Italian border. The area is known for chestnut forests, walking paths, old stone villages, small churches, streams, and views spanning Switzerland and Italy. The little lake of Astano is the closest pleasure: small, calm, and easy to swim in on warm days. From the village, you can walk into the surrounding hills, follow forest trails, explore nearby villages such as Sessa, Novaggio and Miglieglia, or head towards Monte Lema for wider views.
 
Lugano and its Lake are close enough for a day out, while Lake Maggiore, Locarno and Ascona can also be reached for a longer excursion. The Ticino Ticket, included for guests, offers free public transport in the canton and discounts on cable cars, boats, and selected attractions, which is useful if you want to leave the car behind for part of your stay.

THE OWNERS

Vecchia Dogana is run by Elisabetta Lazzaroni and her partner, who restored the former customs house with a clear eye for reuse, simplicity and calm. Their backgrounds in art, film production and visual culture are visible, but never in a forced way. Objects have been found, kept, moved, repaired and given a second life. Their hospitality is discreet. They live nearby, in a separate wing, and are available when needed while leaving guests space.

GOOD TO KNOW

Vecchia Dogana has five rooms, and the bathrooms are shared on each floor. Two electric bikes can be rented, and pets are welcome. The guesthouse is usually open from spring to autumn; dates should be checked before booking. Public parking is available nearby.
Rates start at CHF 190 per night for a double room, depending on the number of nights, rooms booked and services requested.

THE ADDRESS

Vecchia Dogana

Ara Dogana 5
6999 Astano
Switzerland

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